A Blooming Beauty called "Zamboanga"

Zamboanga, on the southern tip of the bird beak-like western arm of heavily forested and mineral-rich Mindanao – the second largest and most southerly of the 11 major islands of the Philippines – can justifiably claim to being a cauldron of culture. This city is more ethnically and historically diverse than any other in the disparate nation.

Though the Philippines is an integral part of Southeast Asia it is, in many ways, the most atypical of the handful of nations spread over the vast region.

To start with, Filipinos themselves are different being of Malay-Polynesian stock with blood influences from China, Indonesia, Spain and the USA. And then there are the nations past colonial affiliations, language origins and religious convictions.

Spanish rule lasted for 333 years followed by nearly 50 years of American government. Centuries of zealous work by Spanish missionaries introduced and nurtured Christianity as well as a new language.

Though now a republic where English is the spoken language rather than the former ‘lingua franca’ of Spanish, Christianity continues to predominate throughout the country. That is everywhere except in Mindanao where the cross meets the crescent and mosques and crescent crested minarets are almost as common as churches and cross-christened steeples.

The port city of Zamboanga like many other large centres in the Philippines has a Spanish-built fort and like most others in Asia has a thriving market. Similarities end there, however, as it has little in common with other cities in the country or, indeed, those in Asia.

The early Malay-speaking settlers noted the differences calling the city ‘Jambangan’ which means "Land of Flowers". Because of its relative proximity to the equator which results in a hot house climate Zamboanga is almost overgrown in floral offerings with Bougainvillea spilling from flower boxes and exotic orchids growing wild.

Pasonanca Park is a blooming good attraction and an excellent introduction to the city’s leisurely lifestyle and traditional outlook. Festooned with year round foliage the park has mountain spring-fed swimming pools and a cozy hideaway without comparison.

Although there are quality hotels like the Zamboanga Plaza and the Lantaca you might like to book a night in the self-contained cottage snugly poised on top of a massive Acacia tree within the core of the park. (Make arrangements with the office of the City Major.) Its rather unconventional location appeals to solitude-seeking honeymooners and others wanting to literally put their feet up for the evening!

By day they will certainly be firmly on the ground and assisting you to amble around the amiable environments of Zamboanga.

Start at the moss covered Fort Pilar. Built in 1635 this Spanish fortress with metre thick walls of coral block has survived numerous attacks launched by a multitude of foreign powers.

Inside it contains the revered shrine to the city’s patron saint, the Lady of del Pilar. Her feast day in mid October is one of the major celebrations for Zamboangans.

The weeks leading up to the special day are especially busy for the stallholders at the wharf-sited markets. Locals come to purchase provisions while it’s the adjunct flea market that will entice you and other visitors to browse and buy.

Bargaining is brisk at this waterfront market where vendors display bright fabrics and black coral jewellery, products of pearl, Chinese porcelain, musical instruments, tasty mangosteen preserves and intricately designed Muslim brassware.

While the Spanish were never able to completely control the large island their rule did extend over a few coastal areas, one of which included Zamboanga. This accounts for the unmistakable Hispanic strains which still pervade this unusual city, notably a distinct language and a solemn fort but also the Spanish ancestry of many families, the architecture of country estates and public buildings and a few quaint customs.

Directly behind the wharf is Plaza Pershing, named for the general who was the first American governor over the local Moros. (The Spanish called the Muslim people of this island and a few minor ones nearby, "Moros", after the Arabs (Moors) whom they had driven from southern Spain centuries earlier.)

By day the Baroque-like City Hall may be the central subject for your photos in the plaza. By night, however, it’s the cooling sea breezes wafting across this flower-filled oasis that interests strolling Zamboangans. Beyond this scene which could well be transported directly from yesteryear’s Spain awaits another facet of the city.

The first stop is tailor made although ‘tailor woven’ might be a more accurate phrase considering that the specialty of the tribal Yakans is produced on age-old wooden looms. Tapestries and table runners in traditional geometric designs and striking violets, oranges, greens and purples have earned Yakan mat makers and loom weavers an unsurpassed reputation for high quality handiwork.

The Yakans are but one of five minority groups living in and around Zamboanga. The Subanons are considered to be the original people of Zamboanga settling here long before the Spanish occupied the city while most Badjaos, the sea gypsies of the nation, spend their lives on small boats which shelter in the waters around numerous isles.

Then there are the Samals and Tausogs. The former make their living from fishing, enjoy cassava, their staple food, and play the ‘baggang’ or the nose flute. The latter, on the other hand, has a diverse culture dating back to the 13^th century when they began trading with merchants from Arabia and China.

The Yakan village is just a few km west of the city. At 22 km out is the San Ramon Penal Farm, a 19^th century Spanish-built prison where inmates who have served a portion of the sentences are allowed to make souvenirs, mostly from wood, and sell them from a tiny kiosk outside the main entrance to the occasional passerby.

Almost equidistant to the east of Zamboanga is Taluksangay, a settlement that is home to a number of Samal and Tausog families. Two peculiarities make this sedate village worth a visit: its picture postcard perfect views of an onion domed mosque and four minarets reflected in a forest-fringed lagoon and the efforts of its local boat builders.

Each evening when the wood workers have completed their day of carpentry chores they retreat to rustic hand-hewn homes that seemingly float on water.

Anchored to pilings driven deep into the soft soil the collection of homely dwellings bathed in a flower-filled background creates a sylvan scene that is different to any other in Asia or the world.

(20 March 2000)

Tell a friend about this page

top